United Arab Emirates Travel Guide

πŸ‡¦πŸ‡ͺUnited Arab EmiratesSunrise over Downtown Dubai and the Burj Khalifa in the United Arab Emirates

Downtown Dubai at sunrise. The photograph everyone has seen, and still the reason most families go

Destination Guide

United Arab Emirates β€” Everything We Know

“The UAE is the easiest long haul trip a family can take. It is also the one that punishes you hardest for going in the wrong month.”

A wooden abra boat crossing Dubai Creek in front of the old city
Nicole’s Perspective

We have not taken our five to the UAE, so this is advisor knowledge and not a memory. I want that said before you read the rest, because the rest is fairly blunt and it deserves to be read as what it is.

The UAE is the destination I get asked about by families who want their first big international trip to feel adventurous without being hard. That instinct is correct. English is everywhere. The tap water is safe. The airport is one of the best in the world. Nobody blinks at a stroller or a picky eater. You can be on a beach in the morning and inside an air conditioned aquarium by lunch.

What people get wrong is the calendar. From late May to mid September it is genuinely dangerous outside in the middle of the day. Forty five degrees Celsius, over a hundred and fifteen Fahrenheit, with humidity on the coast. Families book July because school is out, then spend the week moving between three air conditioned buildings and wondering why it cost so much. If you can only travel in summer, I would rather send you somewhere else and say so.

The other thing I flag early is money. The room rate you see is never the rate you pay. There is a tourism fee per room per night, a five percent VAT, and a municipality fee on top. Ask for the all in figure before you commit, every single time.

United Arab Emirates Place by Place

Eight places worth naming. A first trip realistically picks Dubai plus one day trip, and that is plenty.

Skyscrapers of Downtown Dubai in the United Arab Emirates
01

Downtown Dubai

Aerial view of Ain Dubai and the beach at Bluewaters beside Dubai Marina
02

Dubai Marina and JBR

The Al Seef heritage waterfront beside Dubai Creek in old Dubai
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Old Dubai and the Creek

Aerial view of the Palm Jumeirah island in Dubai
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Palm Jumeirah

The Corniche breakwater and the Abu Dhabi city skyline
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Abu Dhabi

A roller coaster at Ferrari World on Yas Island in Abu Dhabi
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Yas Island

A desert safari camp among the dunes outside Dubai
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The Desert

The rocky mountains of Wadi Ghalilah in Ras Al Khaimah
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Ras Al Khaimah

Sand dunes and an oasis in the Liwa desert in Abu Dhabi United Arab Emirates

The Liwa desert, two and a half hours inland from Abu Dhabi. This is the country the skyline photos leave out

The Heat Is the Whole Planning Problem

Sort your month before you sort anything else. Nothing else on this page matters as much.

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June through September is not a beach holiday. Daytime highs run past forty five Celsius, over a hundred and fifteen Fahrenheit, and the coastal humidity makes it worse. Hotel pools are heated by the sun to bath temperature. Several resorts actively chill their pools in summer, which tells you everything.

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November to March is the real season. Warm, dry, comfortable, and everything outdoors is open. It is also when prices peak and when the December and February school holidays sell out first. Book early or accept less.

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April, May and October are the honest compromise. Hot but survivable, noticeably cheaper, and you can still be outside morning and evening. If your dates are flexible this is where I would put you.

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Ramadan moves every year. It is a beautiful time to visit and a complicated one with children. Daytime eating in public is restricted, some attractions shift hours, and the evenings get busy and joyful. Check the dates against your trip and decide deliberately rather than by accident.

Dubai or Abu Dhabi, or Both

They are ninety minutes apart on a good road and they are not the same trip.

Dubai is the one people picture. Density, spectacle, the tallest building in the world, an indoor ski slope, malls the size of small towns, and beaches that face west into the sunset. It is easy, it is expensive, and it rewards a family that likes doing a lot.

Abu Dhabi is quieter, greener and cheaper, and it holds the two things I would not skip. The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque is genuinely one of the most beautiful buildings I have ever sent a client to, and it is free. Yas Island stacks Ferrari World, Warner Bros World, SeaWorld and a waterpark within walking distance of each other, which for a family with a wide age range is unusually useful.

My default for a first week is Dubai as a base with one or two nights in Abu Dhabi, rather than day tripping the mosque and Yas in a single exhausting go. If your children are theme park age, flip it and stay on Yas.

White marble columns inside the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, Abu Dhabi. Free to visit, dress code enforced, and worth planning your day around

Food

Emirati food is harder to find than you would think, because the restaurant scene is overwhelmingly Lebanese, Indian, Pakistani and Filipino. That is not a complaint. It is one of the best eating cities in the world for exactly that reason. Five things worth ordering.

A shawarma wrap cut in half on a wooden board
Shawarma. The default cheap meal and the one your children will ask for again. Chicken or lamb shaved off the spit, garlic sauce, pickles, wrapped tight in thin bread. Costs a couple of dollars from a counter and about ten times that in a hotel. Get it from the counter.
A platter of spiced Middle Eastern rice with meat
Machboos. The Emirati national dish. Spiced rice cooked with meat or fish, dried lime, cinnamon and saffron, closer to a biryani than a pilaf. Mild rather than hot, which makes it an easy sell to cautious eaters.
A bowl of creamy chickpea hummus with olive oil and garnish
Hummus and mezze. Lebanese rather than Emirati, and completely everywhere. Order a spread of small plates instead of mains and let everyone graze. This is the single easiest way to feed a mixed table of children here.
Falafel served on a bed of fragrant rice
Falafel. Fried chickpea patties, hot, cheap and vegetarian without anyone having to make a point of it. If one of your children has decided they do not eat meat this month, this is your friend.
A white ceramic bowl of brown dates
Dates. Not a snack here so much as an institution. You will be handed them with cardamom coffee in hotel lobbies, at the mosque, in shops. Khalas and medjool are the two names worth knowing. Buy a box at the airport on the way home, they travel perfectly.

Getting Around

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The Dubai Metro is excellent and children love it. Clean, driverless, air conditioned, and the front car has a window straight down the track. It runs along Sheikh Zayed Road and hits most of what you want. A Nol card covers the whole family.

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Taxis are cheap and metered. Genuinely cheap, by American standards. Careem and Uber both work. For a family of five you will often need two cars or a booked van, so factor that in.

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Renting a car is easy and the driving is fast. Roads are wide and modern, signage is in English, and speeds are high. Fines are automated and expensive and the rental company will pass them on months later. If you only want to reach Abu Dhabi and back, a driver for the day often costs less than the stress.

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Dubai and Abu Dhabi are separate airports about ninety minutes apart. Check which one your flight actually uses before booking a hotel. It is a common and expensive mistake.

Money, Rules and Practical Basics

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The dirham is pegged to the US dollar at 3.6725. It does not move. That makes budgeting unusually easy. Cards work everywhere, including taxis and the metro.

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The quoted room rate is never the final rate. Expect a tourism fee charged per room per night, five percent VAT, and a municipality fee on top. Ask for the all in total in writing before you book.

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US passport holders do not arrange a visa in advance. The US State Department states that a US citizen with a regular passport may obtain a no fee visitor visa on arrival for personal travel of thirty days or less, with extensions at the discretion of immigration. Your passport must be valid at least six months beyond entry. Confirm the current stay length before you book, because the UAE changes it.

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Dress rules are real in specific places and relaxed almost everywhere else. Beaches, hotels and pools are normal. Malls, government buildings and mosques expect shoulders and knees covered. At the Grand Mosque women need hair covered and everyone needs long sleeves and long trousers, and they will turn you away at the door.

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Alcohol is legal for tourists and not casual. Served in licensed hotels and restaurants, not in supermarkets, and expensive. Zero tolerance on drink driving means zero. Do not carry it around.

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Some ordinary medicines are controlled. Codeine and several common cold and ADHD medications are restricted. Bring prescriptions in the original labelled packaging and check the Ministry of Health list before you fly. This one catches families out every year.

When to Go

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November to March, the season

Warm days, cool evenings, everything outdoors open and pleasant. This is when to go and everyone knows it, so the December and February school weeks are the most expensive of the year. Book six months out.

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April, May and October, the value window

Hot, in the mid to high thirties Celsius, but workable early and late in the day. Hotel rates drop noticeably. If you have any flexibility at all this is where the value is.

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June to September, avoid

Extreme heat and coastal humidity. I will book it if a family insists, but I tell them plainly that they are paying long haul money for an indoor holiday.

Doing It With Children

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The indoor attractions are the point in shoulder season. Dubai Aquarium inside the Dubai Mall, the Green Planet rainforest dome, Ski Dubai, and the aquarium at Atlantis all exist precisely because of the climate. They are good, and they are the plan when it is too hot outside.

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Yas Island is the strongest theme park cluster outside America. Ferrari World has the fastest rollercoaster in the world and also a whole children area. Warner Bros World is fully indoor and air conditioned. SeaWorld Abu Dhabi opened recently and is aimed squarely at families. Check individual ride height limits, they are strict.

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Public beaches are free, clean and staffed. Kite Beach and JBR both have showers, lifeguards and food. You do not need a beach club to have a beach day here, whatever the hotel tells you.

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A desert evening is worth doing once, and pick the calm version. Most desert safaris open with dune bashing in a four wheel drive, which reliably makes somebody carsick. Ask for a camp transfer without the dune driving if you have a child prone to it. The camel ride, the sunset and the dinner are the good part anyway.

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Nobody here is inconvenienced by your children. Changing tables, family bathrooms, high chairs, kids menus, and hotel staff who genuinely engage with them. This is one of the most straightforward places in the world to travel with small people.

Who the UAE Suits, and Who Should Skip It

It suits a family who wants a first big long haul trip with the difficulty dialled down. It suits mixed age groups, because a fourteen year old and a six year old can both have a good day here without compromise. It suits anyone with a long Emirates or Etihad layover who would rather turn it into four nights.

It does not suit you if you are looking for old streets and small places and a sense of somewhere ancient. Dubai is fifty years old and does not pretend otherwise. The historic quarter is small and restored and takes an afternoon.

And it does not suit a summer traveller. I have said this three times on this page and I mean it three times.

Things That Surprise First Timers

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It is much bigger and more spread out than the photos suggest. Dubai runs about forty miles along the coast. Choosing the wrong neighbourhood costs you an hour in the car twice a day.

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The call to prayer is everywhere and it is lovely. Five times a day, including one before dawn. If you are a light sleeper, ask for a room away from the street.

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The malls are civic spaces, not just shops. People go to walk, eat, meet and cool off. The Dubai Mall has an aquarium, an ice rink and a waterfall in it. It makes more sense once you stop thinking of it as a mall.

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Roughly nine in ten people you meet are not Emirati. The population is overwhelmingly expatriate, largely South Asian and Filipino. Actual Emirati culture is quieter and more private than the skyline implies, and you have to go looking for it.

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The weekend is Saturday and Sunday. It changed from Friday and Saturday in 2022 for most of the country. Friday is a working day with a long midday prayer break, and Sharjah runs a three day weekend. Check opening hours rather than assuming.

Pairs Well With

The classic pairing and the reason Emirates exists in most people itineraries. Dubai breaks up a brutal flight and gives you four nights of easy before you land somewhere harder. Two weeks total works.

Three hours away and a completely different world. A few soft days in Abu Dhabi either side of India is a genuinely kind way to structure that trip with children.

Four hours to Istanbul. Two very different Muslim cities back to back, one ancient and one brand new, is one of the more interesting things you can show a curious eleven year old.

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