Aruba — Everything We Know

🇦🇼Aruba A divi divi tree bent by the trade wind on the white sand of Eagle Beach in Aruba

The divi divi on Eagle Beach. Every one of them on this island points the same way, because the wind never stops and never changes direction

Destination Guide

Aruba — Everything We Know

“Families pick Aruba for one reason above all the others and it is not the beach. It is that it sits outside the hurricane belt, so a June wedding or an October half term is not a gamble. That single fact sells this island.”

The silhouette of a fofoti tree against an orange Aruban sunset
Nicole’s Perspective

Being honest about what this is. Advisor knowledge, not a family trip report. There is no Aruba diary on this site and none of these pictures are mine. What I do have is a book of families I have sent here and a very clear sense of who comes back happy.

Aruba is the island I recommend when somebody says the words “I cannot risk the weather”. It sits fifteen miles off Venezuela, well south of the hurricane track, and it gets about twenty inches of rain a year. That is less than Phoenix. For a destination wedding, a honeymoon, or a family with one shot at a holiday, that reliability is worth real money.

What surprises people is what the island actually looks like. It is not lush. There is no rainforest, no waterfall, no river. It is cactus, divi divi trees, gold coloured rock and wind. Beautiful, but arid, and families who booked expecting the Caribbean of the adverts sometimes take a day to adjust.

And the wind. It genuinely never stops. It keeps the temperature bearable and it will take a hat, an umbrella and a paper plate off your table. Plan around it rather than being annoyed by it.

Aruba Place by Place

Nineteen miles long, six miles wide, and you can circle the whole thing in an afternoon. The west coast holds every beach and every hotel. The east side is empty rock and open ocean. Almost nobody who visits crosses over, and that is a mistake.

A green and white Dutch colonial building on a street in Oranjestad, Aruba
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Oranjestad

Clear shallow water and low rocks along the sand at Palm Beach in Aruba
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Palm Beach

A wind bent divi divi tree standing alone on the sand at Eagle Beach, Aruba
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Eagle Beach

Waves breaking against the rocky windward coast inside Arikok National Park in Aruba
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Arikok National Park

Beach chairs and a palapa beside shallow calm turquoise water in Aruba
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Baby Beach

The pale stone tower of the California Lighthouse against a cloudy blue sky in Aruba
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California Lighthouse

The small yellow Alto Vista Chapel standing among cactus in Noord, Aruba
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Noord

A large street art mural on a wall in San Nicolas, Aruba
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San Nicolas

Outside the Hurricane Belt, and Why That Is the Whole Argument

This is the single biggest reason to choose Aruba over any of its neighbours and most families do not fully understand it when they book. It is not a marketing line. It is geography.

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Aruba sits at twelve degrees north, fifteen miles off the Venezuelan coast. Hurricanes form and track well above that line. A direct hit here happens perhaps once in a generation, and the last serious one that mattered was Felix in 2007, which passed to the north.

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It makes September and October bookable. Those are the two months I have to caution families away from across most of the Caribbean. In Aruba they are quiet, cheap and reliably sunny, and that is a genuine bargain.

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It is why Aruba owns the destination wedding market. If you are asking forty people to fly somewhere on a fixed date, you cannot gamble on the weather. Aruba, Curacao and Bonaire are the three islands where you are not gambling.

The rain figure is the other half of it. Roughly twenty inches a year, most of it in short bursts between October and January. There is no rainy season the way there is in Jamaica or Costa Rica. It is dry, and it stays dry.

It is outside the belt, not immune. Tropical storms do occasionally track close and the outer bands bring wind and swell. Buy the insurance anyway. Just know the odds here are far better than anywhere north of you.

A wave breaking hard against the black rock of the windward north coast of Aruba

The north coast. Ten minutes from a resort pool and completely unswimmable, and nobody photographs this side of the island for a brochure

It Is a Desert, and Nobody Tells You That

Aruba is arid. Genuinely arid, with cactus and scrub and gold rock, and roughly a fifth of the island is a national park made of exactly that. This catches families out and it is also the most interesting thing about the place.

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The divi divi trees are a wind gauge. Every one of them leans south west because the trade wind blows from the north east all year without pausing. They are the island’s symbol for a reason and children notice it before adults do.

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Arikok National Park is nearly twenty percent of the island. Cactus, iguanas, wild donkeys, gold mine ruins and a coastline being hammered by the Atlantic. You need a four wheel drive or a tour for the interior tracks. Do not take a small hire car down them.

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There is no fresh water and the tap water is excellent. Aruba desalinates almost everything it drinks and the result is genuinely good water. Do not buy bottled. It also means water is expensive to produce and hotels ask you to be careful with it.

The wind hides the sun and people burn badly. This is the practical warning. A constant fifteen knot breeze makes thirty degrees feel pleasant, and families cook themselves on day one because they never felt hot. Reapply on a timer, not on a feeling.

Palm Beach or Eagle Beach, and It Actually Matters

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Palm Beach is the high rise strip

The big chain resorts, casinos, restaurants and watersports, all lined up along one busy stretch. Loud, convenient, walkable to everything, and the beach is crowded with loungers by nine in the morning. Teenagers love it.

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Eagle Beach is the low rise one

Wider sand, fewer buildings, no towers, and the famous divi divi trees. Consistently rated one of the best beaches in the world and it is quieter because the hotels behind it are smaller. This is where I put families with younger children.

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Baby Beach is for the very small

Down at the far south east end past San Nicolas. A sheltered lagoon that stays shin deep a long way out with almost no current. It is a forty minute drive and for a family with a three year old it is worth every minute.

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Do not swim on the north or east coast

Open Atlantic, strong current, sharp rock and no lifeguards. Andicuri and Boca Prins look inviting in a photograph and people get into trouble there every year. Go, look, take the picture, stay out of the water.

A natural rock arch over clear water on the rugged north coast of Aruba

One of the rock arches on the wild side. The famous Natural Bridge collapsed in 2005 and the smaller Baby Bridge beside it is what everybody photographs now

What It Actually Costs

Aruba is a mid to upper priced island. Cheaper than Cayman, more than the Dominican Republic, roughly level with Barbados. The costs that surprise people are the small ones.

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US dollars are accepted everywhere. The florin is pegged and stable, and you will get change in a mix of both. Nothing needs exchanging and card acceptance is universal. That is one whole category of friction removed.

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The all inclusive market here is thin and the ones that exist are pricey. Aruba is mostly a room only or breakfast included island. If a locked in number is what you need, you will find better value in the Dominican Republic or Jamaica.

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Eating out is genuinely expensive and genuinely good. The Dutch influence means a real restaurant scene rather than resort buffets. Budget properly for it, or rent a condo and use the supermarkets in Noord and Oranjestad.

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There is a room tax and a sustainability fee. A percentage room tax plus a small nightly environmental levy, usually collected at checkout rather than at booking. It is not a scam and it is not in the price you were quoted.

Food

Aruban cooking is Dutch, Caribbean, Venezuelan and West African at the same time, which makes it the most interesting food in this corner of the region. Cornmeal and stews at the base, cheese and pastry from the Netherlands on top, and a lot of it sold from a hatch.

A baked dish of spiced meat under melted cheese in an oval dish
Keshi Yena. The national dish. A shell of Edam or Gouda filled with spiced chicken, olives, capers and raisins and baked until it collapses. It started as slaves and servants filling the cheese rinds the Dutch households threw out. Sweet, salty and genuinely unusual.
A plate of golden fried filled pastries
Pastechi. A fried pastry turnover filled with cheese, beef, chicken or tuna. Breakfast, snack, everything. Every bakery has a queue for them by seven in the morning and children will eat four without noticing.
Golden fried sticks served on a plate with a dip
Funchi. Cornmeal cooked stiff, then either served soft alongside a stew or cut into sticks and fried. The fried version is on every menu and it is what most visitors meet first. Think of it as the island’s chips.
A bowl of slow cooked meat stew with potato in a thick gravy
Stoba. The everyday stew. Goat is traditional, beef and chicken are common, cooked down slowly with tomato, onion and pepper until it needs no knife. Served with funchi and rice. This is what Arubans actually eat on a weeknight.
A thick golden pancake on a red plate beside flour and eggs
Pan Bati. Literally beaten bread. A thick cornmeal pancake, faintly sweet, cooked in a pan and served alongside stew rather than as a dessert. If a child refuses everything else on the table, order this.

Getting Around

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They drive on the right and it is easy. American style road rules, good roads on the west side, and the whole island is small enough that nothing is more than forty minutes away. Hiring a car for two or three days rather than the whole week is usually the right call.

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The Arubus is cheap and it actually works. Route ten runs between Oranjestad, Eagle Beach and Palm Beach constantly and costs a couple of dollars. For a resort based family with no plans to explore, you may never need a car.

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The Oranjestad tram is free and it is a nice twenty minutes. Runs from the cruise terminal through the main street. Not transport, exactly, but children like it and it costs nothing.

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Arikok needs proper clearance. A normal hire car will not survive the interior tracks and your insurance will not cover it if you try. Book a jeep tour or hire a four wheel drive specifically for that day.

When to Go

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Dec to Apr

High season and the island is full. Best temperatures, steady breeze, and rates at their absolute peak over Christmas and the American spring break. Book six months out for those weeks or accept what is left.

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May and June

The best value on the calendar. Crowds gone, weather essentially identical to February, rates meaningfully lower. This is the window I push families towards when the dates are flexible.

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Sep and Oct

Quietest and cheapest, and here that is not a hurricane gamble the way it is everywhere else in the region. Hotter and slightly stickier, with a bit more chance of a passing shower. Still the smartest booking in the Caribbean in October.

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Carnival

January through to the Tuesday before Lent, building to the Grand Parade in Oranjestad. Weeks of it, not a day. Enormous, joyful and completely booked out. Wonderful if that is what you came for and a shock if it is not.

With Kids

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The flamingos are on a private island

They live on the Renaissance’s own island and access is for hotel guests or a limited number of day passes that sell out well ahead. It is genuinely lovely and it is not something you can turn up and do. Book it before you fly or leave it out.

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Iguanas are everywhere and they are harmless

Big green ones on every wall, in every car park, occasionally at your breakfast table. They will steal food and they will not bite. For a seven year old this is the highlight of the week.

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The west coast water is genuinely calm

No surf on Palm or Eagle Beach on a normal day, gentle slope, warm all year. Combined with the wind keeping the heat off, it is one of the easier islands in the region for children who tire quickly.

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Standards are Dutch

A proper hospital, safe tap water, low crime, reliable pharmacies and clean streets. Aruba is part of the Kingdom of the Netherlands and it shows in the infrastructure everywhere except the price list.

How It Compares, and Who Should Skip It

Aruba usually comes up against three or four other islands on the same shortlist. Here is how I actually answer it.

Skip it if you want green. This is the big one. If your family pictures rainforest, waterfalls, mountains and jungle rivers, Aruba will disappoint you on arrival. That trip is Costa Rica, Jamaica or St Lucia.

Skip it if the budget is fixed and tight. There is not enough all inclusive stock here to compete on price. The Dominican Republic does the fixed price family week much better and I say so plainly.

Choose it over anything else if the date cannot move. A wedding, a milestone anniversary, a school holiday in late September. Weather reliability is the product here and nothing else in the Caribbean sells it as convincingly.

Choose it over the Bahamas for a longer stay. Better restaurants, a real town, a national park, and a beach that does not require a boat. The Bahamas has the better water. Aruba has the better week.

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Who it is perfect for. Families and couples who want a guaranteed sunny week with no weather anxiety, who are happy on one beach with good food nearby, and who will take one day out to see a landscape nobody expects.

A sailing boat on the water off Eagle Beach as the sun sets in Aruba

The west coast at the end of the day. The whole hotel strip faces this way, which is why every evening on this island ends the same and nobody minds

Things Worth Knowing Before You Book

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There are four languages and everybody uses all of them. Papiamento at home, Dutch officially, and Spanish and English fluently. You will hear a shopkeeper switch three times in one sentence. English is genuinely universal, not approximately universal.

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You clear US customs before you leave. Aruba has full US preclearance at the airport, so you land back in America as a domestic arrival. Get to the airport three hours early, because that process is thorough and the queue is real.

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San Nicolas is worth an afternoon. The old refinery town at the south end, now covered in large scale street murals from an annual art festival. Down at heel in places, completely genuine, and the most interesting non beach hour on the island.

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Sunscreen rules are enforced. Oxybenzone and octinoxate sunscreens are banned to protect the reef and they will be taken off you at the airport. Buy reef safe before you fly, it is much cheaper at home.

Go Deeper

No Aruba trip report on this site, and I will not invent one. What is here instead is the comparison work. The Caribbean piece stacks sixteen islands against each other and is the fastest way to see where Aruba fits, and the cruising piece matters because a port day is how a lot of families meet it first. Both sit under the North America guide.

A note on the images. None of the photographs on this page are ours. Neither of those posts carries a usable photograph either, so the cards use real Aruba pictures instead. When we get there properly this page gets rewritten with our own.

Pairs Well With

If you have the time to add a second country, these are the ones I would actually pair this one with. Not a list of neighbors. A list of trips that work.

Both sit outside the usual hurricane track and both are easy to reach. Aruba for the guaranteed sun, Barbados for the food and the buses.

Opposite ends of the price and reliability trade. The DR for a fixed budget fortnight, Aruba for the week that absolutely cannot be rained on.

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