India with children is the trip that parents talk themselves out of, and the Golden Triangle is the version that works. Three cities, a private car and driver for the whole week, a guide in each city, and hotels with pools to hide in at three in the afternoon.
Delhi for two nights. Humayun’s Tomb, the garden tomb that the Taj Mahal was modeled on, at opening when it is cool and empty. A cycle rickshaw through the lanes of Old Delhi past the spice market. The Lotus Temple for the quiet. Then the pool.
Agra for one night. The Taj Mahal at sunrise, which means up at five, and the sight of it in the first light is why you came. Two hours inside. Then Agra Fort, then the car to Jaipur with a stop at Fatehpur Sikri, the abandoned red city, on the way.
Jaipur and the tigers
Jaipur for three nights. Amber Fort on its hill with a jeep up, not an elephant. The Jantar Mantar observatory with its giant stone sundial that kids can read. The pink city bazaars for bangles and a block printing workshop. A hotel in a converted palace, because Jaipur has a dozen and they are cheaper than you think.
Ranthambore is the add on, three hours from Jaipur. Two nights at a lodge and two jeep safaris at dawn for tigers. Kids over eight who can stay still. It is the best chance of a wild tiger anywhere in India and it turns the trip into a story.
A driver and guide from a good local operator is the whole trick, and I book them. Bottled water, hand sanitizer, a pharmacy kit, and the rule that we only eat what is hot and cooked in front of us. Then the food, which is the other reason to come.
Planning India with kids? Start with the full India family travel guide, or send me the ages and the dates and I will come back with what is really available.
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