Amtrak
Sleepers
the American long-distance routes, assessed
American long-distance trains are not European trains and it does nobody any good to pretend otherwise. They are slow, they are frequently late, and the network is thin. They are also, on the right route in the right room, one of the most enjoyable ways to cross a continent with children, and the scenery on a couple of these lines is as good as any train journey on earth.
Set your expectations correctly first
These trains are not fast. A journey that takes four hours to fly takes two nights. That is the trade and if you are not making it deliberately, you will be unhappy.
Delays are normal. Freight traffic has priority on most of the network, and a long-distance train can arrive many hours behind schedule. Never book a tight connection or a next-morning flight at the far end.
What you get in return is space, a bed, a window, no security theater, and a relaxed way to see country you cannot see any other way.
Roomette or bedroom, which matters a lot
A roomette is small. Two seats facing each other by day, converting to two bunks at night. It is fine for one or two people and tight for two adults.
A bedroom is substantially larger with a proper bed and a private toilet and shower in the room. It costs considerably more.
With children, the practical answer is usually two connecting roomettes rather than one bedroom. Some cars have roomettes that open into each other, which gives you a family suite at a lower price than a bedroom. Ask specifically about connecting roomettes when booking.
Coach seats are large and recline substantially, and for a single overnight with older children they are a legitimate budget option. For two nights, get a room.
What is included in a sleeper fare
All your meals in the dining car are included in the sleeper price, which materially changes the value calculation. On a two night journey that is six meals for each person.
Bedding, towels and a car attendant who makes up the beds are included. Showers are available in the car on most long-distance routes.
Coach passengers pay for food separately, so the gap between coach and a room is smaller than the headline numbers suggest once you account for eating.
The routes actually worth taking
The California Zephyr, Chicago to San Francisco, is the one I would recommend first. Through the Colorado Rockies and then the Sierra Nevada, with a sightseer lounge car with windows that curve into the roof. Two nights.
The Empire Builder, Chicago to Seattle or Portland, runs along the edge of Glacier National Park and is superb in the right season.
The Coast Starlight, Seattle to Los Angeles, runs along the Pacific for long stretches and is the easiest single overnight to try the format with children.
The Southwest Chief through New Mexico and Arizona is quietly one of the best for landscape.
The eastern routes are more functional and less scenic. If the journey is the point, go west.
With children, practically
The sightseer lounge is where children will spend the journey and rightly so. Big windows, tables, space to move around, and other passengers to talk to.
There is no wifi worth relying on and long stretches with no phone signal, which is either a problem or the entire benefit depending on how you frame it to them. Download everything in advance.
Bring your own snacks and drinks regardless of included meals. Dining car times are fixed and children do not run on fixed times.
Getting off at longer stops to stand on the platform is allowed and is a highlight. The attendant will tell you how long you have. Believe them.
What I would watch out for
Book early for rooms. The sleeper inventory on each train is small, prices rise as it fills, and popular routes in summer sell out months ahead.
Rooms are priced per room rather than per person, with meals included for occupants, so the math for a family is better than it first appears.
And accept the delays. If you cannot be relaxed about arriving four hours late, this is not the right way to travel and I would rather tell you now.
A western Amtrak sleeper is one of the best value adventures available to an American family and one of the most misunderstood. If you are curious, tell me the season and I will tell you which route to take and which room to book.
Questions people actually ask
The ones that come up before anyone books. If yours isn’t here, ask me.
Are meals included on Amtrak sleeper trains?
Yes. Dining car meals are included in sleeper fares for all occupants of the room, which substantially narrows the real cost gap between coach and sleeper accommodation on long journeys.
What is the difference between a roomette and a bedroom?
A roomette has two facing seats converting to two bunks and no private bathroom. A bedroom is larger with a proper bed and an en-suite toilet and shower, at a considerably higher price.
Can families connect two roomettes?
On many cars, yes. Certain roomettes open into each other to form a connecting family space, which is often cheaper than a single bedroom. This should be requested specifically at booking.
Which Amtrak route is the most scenic?
The California Zephyr between Chicago and San Francisco is widely regarded as the most scenic, crossing the Colorado Rockies and Sierra Nevada. The Empire Builder, Coast Starlight and Southwest Chief are also strong choices.
Are Amtrak long-distance trains often late?
Yes. Freight traffic has priority on much of the network and significant delays are common. Tight connections and same-day onward flights should be avoided.
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Written and kept current by Nicole Damiano, ASTA Verified Travel Advisor with FG Luxury Travel. If something here is out of date, tell me and I will fix it.
Tell me who is coming and how long you have.
That is usually enough to know if this is a ship, a train, or a car with the windows down.
