Panama Family Travel Guide

🇵🇦Panama The towers of Panama City rising behind the water of the bay

Panama City from across the bay. People are always surprised by it. This is a proper modern capital with a metro, not a sleepy Central American town.

Destination Guide

Panama Family Travel Guide

“Panama is the Central American country that does not feel like Central America. It runs on the US dollar, the capital has real infrastructure, and the Canal is one of the few engineering sights that holds a child’s attention for an hour.”

A view of Panama City buildings seen from a moving vehicle
Nicole’s Perspective

Straight up about what this page is. There is no Panama story on this site and none of these photos are ours. I sell Central America constantly and Panama is the one I have to talk people into, because it is not on the shortlist and it should be.

The thing nobody expects is how normal Panama City feels. There is a metro. There are highways that work. There are hospitals people fly in for. You can land, sleep in a good hotel, walk around Casco Viejo at night, and never once feel like you are managing a trip. That is unusual in this part of the world and it makes Panama a soft landing for families who are nervous about the region.

The Canal is the other reason. I am usually sceptical of one big sight trips, but Miraflores and the Agua Clara visitor center are excellent, the ships come through on a schedule, and children who could not care less about history stand there watching a vessel get lifted out of the water. Give it most of a day.

What Panama is not is a beach destination in the way Aruba or the Bahamas are. The beaches are good, not famous. If someone tells me they want a week on a lounger, I do not send them here.

Panama Place by Place

Panama is narrow and it packs a lot into that. City, canal, two coasts, mountains and two completely different island groups, all within a few hours of each other.

A large sign spelling out Panama standing in Panama City
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Panama City

A container ship moving through a lock on the Panama Canal
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Panama Canal

Wooden houses built out over the water at Bocas del Toro, Panama
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Bocas del Toro

A single palm tree on a small beach in the San Blas Islands, Panama
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San Blas

Green mountains under blue sky in the Chiriqui highlands of Panama
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Boquete

A waterfall falling through dense green forest in Panama
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El Valle

An old building with wooden balconies on a street in Casco Viejo, Panama City
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Casco Viejo

A turquoise shoreline fringed with palms on an island in Panama
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Pearl Islands

Why Panama and Not the Country Next Door

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It uses the US dollar

This surprises almost everyone. The balboa exists as coins, but paper money is US dollars. No exchange, no conversion math, no bad rate at the airport. For a first trip out of the country with kids that removes a whole category of stress.

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The capital actually works

Panama City has a metro, a functioning airport that connects to everywhere in the Americas, international hospitals and clean water. It is the easiest major city in Central America to land in cold.

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The Canal is a real day out

Miraflores near the city and Agua Clara on the Caribbean side both have proper visitor centers with viewing decks, films and models. Ships come through all day. It is the rare educational stop that children ask to stay longer at.

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Serious birding

Over a thousand recorded species in a country the size of South Carolina. Pipeline Road at Gamboa is one of the famous birding sites on earth, and it is forty minutes from a city hotel. You do not need a specializt lodge to see extraordinary birds here.

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Two oceans, one short drive

Pacific and Caribbean coasts a couple of hours apart. Nowhere else lets a family swim in both oceans in the same day without a flight, and children think that is the best fact they have ever heard.

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It is a real hub

Copa flies Panama City to almost every capital in the Americas. If you are combining countries, or stopping en route to South America, a few days here costs you nothing extra in flights.

Rainforest along the Panama Canal with the city towers in the distance

Rainforest along the Canal with the skyline behind it. That combination, twenty minutes of jungle from a downtown hotel, is the thing Panama does that nowhere else does.

The Canal Is Worth a Whole Day

People book the Canal as a two hour stop and then wish they had not. Here is how it actually splits, and which side to choose.

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Miraflores is the standard visit. Twenty minutes from downtown, four floors of exhibits, a film, and a viewing terrace right over the lock chamber. Check the ship transit times before you go, because the middle of the day can be quiet. Mornings are the safer bet.

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Agua Clara is the newer, bigger one. On the Caribbean side near Colon, at the expanded locks, so you see the enormous modern vessels rather than the older Panamax ships. Fewer crowds, better viewing, a longer drive. If the family is interested, go here.

You can transit it yourself. Partial transit tours run most weekends and take you through two sets of locks on a small boat. Four to five hours, not cheap, and completely worth it for anyone who has ever been curious. Too long for a restless six year old.

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The Panama Canal Railway is the underrated one. An hour from ocean to ocean alongside the waterway in old observation cars. It runs early on weekday mornings only, so it takes planning, and it is one of the nicest hours you will spend in the country.

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Pair it with the Biomuseo or the Causeway. The Frank Gehry museum at the Amador Causeway is small but bright and quick, and the causeway itself is a good place to walk off a museum afternoon with the skyline in front of you.

Bocas del Toro or San Blas

These are the two island trips people ask about and they are nothing alike. Choosing wrong is the most common Panama mistake I see.

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Bocas del Toro is the easy one. Caribbean archipelago in the northwest, a short flight from the city, with hotels, restaurants, water taxis, surf and a backpacker town on Isla Colon. Comfortable, connected, and a bit scruffy. This is where most families should go.

San Blas is the postcard and the hard one. Hundreds of tiny islands run by the Guna people, who control access and tourism themselves. Basic huts, no air conditioning, patchy power, a rough four wheel drive over the mountains or a small plane to get there. It is extraordinarily beautiful. It is also not comfortable, and that catches families out.

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Respect matters in Guna Yala. It is autonomous territory, not a resort area. There are fees, there are rules about photographing people, and molas are bought from the women who made them. Go with a guide who works with the community.

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The Pearl Islands are the third option nobody mentions. Pacific side, an hour by ferry or fifteen minutes by air from the city, with proper hotels on Contadora and whale watching from July to October. Easiest island add on if you only have two nights.

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Bocas has its own weather. The Caribbean side does not follow the same dry season as the rest of the country. It can rain there in February when Panama City is bone dry. Check the coast, not the country.

A howler monkey sitting on a branch in the forest at Gamboa, Panama

Gamboa, on the edge of the Canal watershed. Howler monkeys overhead and Pipeline Road, one of the great birding walks anywhere, both about forty minutes from a city hotel.

The Highlands, and Why You Might Want Them

Panama at altitude is a different country. Cool, green, full of flowers, and completely unlike the coast. Two places do it and they suit different trips.

Boquete is the famous one. Up in Chiriqui near the Costa Rican border, cool enough for a sweater at night, built on coffee. Geisha coffee from these hills sells for absurd money at auction and the farm tours are interesting even for people who do not drink it. Hiking, hot springs, river rafting, the Quetzal trail.

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El Valle is the easy one. Two hours from Panama City, sitting inside an old volcanic crater. Waterfalls, a Sunday market, butterfly gardens, short hikes, and a temperature that makes everyone sleep better. Perfect two night break from the heat if you do not have time for Boquete.

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Altitude here is mild. Boquete sits around 3,900 feet, El Valle a bit lower. Nobody gets altitude sick. This is not Peru. It just means cooler evenings and better sleeping.

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Getting to Boquete takes commitment. A seven hour drive on the Pan American Highway or a short flight to David and an hour by road. For a one week trip that is a lot. For ten days or more it is worth it.

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Quetzals are real here. Resplendent quetzals nest around Boquete and Volcan Baru between roughly February and May. Costa Rica gets the reputation, Panama gets the same birds with fewer people looking at them.

What It Costs

Panama sits in the middle. Cheaper than the Caribbean islands, more expensive than Guatemala or Nicaragua, and unusually good value at the top end.

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City hotels are a bargain. Panama City is full of international business hotels that go soft at weekends. Four star rooms for what a mediocre beach hotel costs elsewhere. Casco Viejo boutiques cost more and are worth it for a night or two.

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Eating splits sharply. A fonda lunch, the set plate of the day, costs a few dollars. A Casco Viejo restaurant costs what one would in Miami. Both are available on the same street and the fonda is often better.

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The islands are where money goes. San Blas boat transfers, Bocas water taxis and internal flights add up quickly for five people. Budget the transport before the hotels.

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Taxis are cheap, rideshare is cheaper. Uber works well in Panama City and removes the negotiation. Street taxis do not use meters and quote by zone, so agree the price first.

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Carry small bills. Everything is in US dollars but nobody outside the city wants a fifty. Break notes at the supermarket. Note that Panama does not print its own paper money, so a torn or marked US bill can be refused.

What You Will Eat

Panamanian food is not spicy and it is not fussy. It is rice, root vegetables, stewed meat and fried things, and the good version of it is very good. The photographs below show the kind of plate each dish arrives on, not that exact dish photographed in Panama.

A bowl of soup with corn and vegetables and a spoon beside it
SancochoThe national dish. Chicken simmered with ñame root and culantro until the broth turns golden. Eaten for hangovers, for colds, and at every family gathering. Order it once even in the heat.
Fried pieces of plantain in a paper wrapper with a fork
PataconesGreen plantain smashed flat and fried twice. Salty, crunchy, served with everything. The side dish every child in the family will eat without argument.
Fried stuffed pastries served on a dark plate
CarimañolasYuca dough shaped around seasoned ground beef and deep fried. Breakfast food, street food, bus station food. Golden outside and soft inside.
Chopped white fish with red onion and herbs in a white dish
Ceviche de CorvinaSea bass cured in lime with onion and celery, sold by the cup at the Mercado de Mariscos in the city for a couple of dollars. Have it there, standing up, at eleven in the morning.
Pieces of golden fried flatbread on a white plate
HojaldrasFried breakfast dough, sometimes dusted with sugar, sometimes holding a fried egg and cheese. This is what a Panamanian morning tastes like.

Getting Around

Fly for anything past two hours. Air Panama and Copa run domestic hops from Albrook, the little downtown airport, to Bocas, David and Contadora. Albrook is not Tocumen, so check which airport your ticket says. People miss flights over this.

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Driving is fine. The Pan American Highway is good, signage is decent, and outside the city traffic is light. Panama City traffic itself is bad and parking is worse, so pick the car up on the way out of town.

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The metro is clean, cheap and easy. Two lines, air conditioned, a rechargeable card. It will not reach everywhere a tourist wants to go but it beats sitting in traffic on the corridor.

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San Blas transfers are rough. Four wheel drive over the mountains before dawn, then an open boat. Three to four hours of hard road each way. If anyone in the family gets carsick, fly to Playon Chico instead.

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The long distance buses are better than you expect. Albrook terminal is enormous and organized, coaches to David are comfortable and overnight services run. It is a real option for teenagers and a long night for anyone else.

When to Go

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Dec to Apr

Dry season on the Pacific side and in the city. Sunny, breezy, busiest and most expensive. The best window for a first trip.

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May and Jun

Rain starts but usually as an afternoon burst. Prices soften, everything is green again, whale season begins in the Pearl Islands. Good value.

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Jul to Nov

Green season. October and November are the wettest. Panama sits below the hurricane belt so storms are not the issue, sustained rain is. Bocas often gets its own better weather in September and October.

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Carnival

Four days before Ash Wednesday. The whole country stops, Las Tablas goes wild, hotels double and buses fill. Go on purpose or avoid on purpose. Do not book into it by accident.

Panama With Kids

Poppy, our cavapooPoppy marks the family parts. Wherever you see her, that section is written for travelling with children.
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The Canal holds them

A ship rising in a lock chamber is a astonishing thing to watch and it happens on a timetable. Ask at the desk when the next transit is due and plan the visit around it rather than turning up and hoping.

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Monkey Island and Gamboa

Boat trips on Gatun Lake pass islands with capuchins and howlers, and the Gamboa resort area has a sloth sanctuary and a butterfly house. Half a day, close to the city, reliably a hit.

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Health is straightforward

Tap water in Panama City is safe to drink, which is rare in the region. Hospitals in the capital are excellent. Mosquito cover matters in the lowlands and on the islands rather than in the city.

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Entry is simple

US, Canadian and UK passports get a stamp for a stay of up to ninety days. Passport validity of three to six months is expected. A letter of consent is worth carrying if one parent travels alone with children.

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The city is not a beach trip

Panama City has no swimming beach. Playa Blanca and the Pacific coast resorts are an hour or two west if you want pool and sand as a bookend to the trip.

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English goes further than in the rest of the region

A century of American presence around the Canal left a lot of English behind, especially in the city and among guides. It is not Belize, but it is easier than Guatemala.

Who Should Skip Panama

It is not the right answer for everyone and it is an expensive mistake to make with a week of trip.

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Beach first families. Panama has nice beaches. It does not have famous ones. If the picture in your head is powder sand and a swim up bar, Aruba, the Bahamas or the Dominican Republic deliver that and Panama does not.

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Anyone whose whole trip is wildlife. Panama has superb birds. Costa Rica has the lodges, the guides and the national park system built around showing them to families. For a pure wildlife week, Costa Rica still wins.

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All inclusive tripmakers. There are a few Pacific coast resorts but the model is not what Panama does. You will be booking hotels, flights and tours separately.

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People who want deep colonial history. Casco Viejo and Portobelo are lovely and small. Mexico and Guatemala have far more of it. If old towns are the reason you travel, Panama is a day, not a week.

Anyone with four nights or fewer. The Canal, the city and one other region is a seven night trip. Any less and you should just do the city and the Canal properly and come back.

A narrow street lined with old buildings in Panama City

Casco Viejo. Restored, walkable, full of restaurants, and small enough to see in an evening. It is also the part of the city where people finally relax.

Things Worth Knowing Before You Book

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Two airports, one city. Tocumen is international and about forty minutes out. Albrook is downtown and domestic. Connecting between them in one day is possible but tight, so build in the buffer.

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Panama does not do daylight saving. It sits on Eastern Standard Time all year, so in the American summer it is an hour behind New York. This trips up people scheduling work calls.

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Connectivity is good. Mobile data is fast and cheap, hotel wifi in the city is reliable, and coworking spaces are everywhere. If a parent has to work mid trip, this is one of the easier places in the region to do it.

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The Darien is not a destination. The southeast corner of the country toward Colombia is closed to normal travel and should stay off your map entirely. Nothing on a family itinerary goes anywhere near it.

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Pacific tides are enormous. The tidal range on the Pacific side runs to fifteen feet or more, so a beach that looks perfect at noon is mudflat at four. On the Caribbean side it barely moves. Check the tide table before promising anyone a swim.

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Colon is not a stop. The Caribbean port city is rough and there is no reason for a family to spend time there. Go to Agua Clara or Portobelo and keep moving.

Combine It With

Panama is a hub, which makes it the easiest country in the region to bolt onto something else.

The natural neighbor and a easy overland or short flight pairing. Costa Rica for the wildlife and the lodges, Panama for the Canal, the city and the San Blas coast.

An hour by air from Panama City. Cartagena and Panama together make a two country trip with almost no transit time, and the two Caribbean coasts feel completely different.

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