The Dells of the Wisconsin River, the sandstone cliffs the whole town is named for. Photo Pentachlorphenol, CC BY-SA 4.0
Wisconsin With Kids Family Travel Guide
A quarter of the country’s cheese comes from here, and the trip splits into two honest choices, quiet water on one side of the state and a resort full of waterslides on the other. Most families pick one, not both.
I have never actually stood in Wisconsin. Not once, not even a layover. That surprises people when I say it, because right now I have five client families there, more than any other state I had not built a guide for yet, and it is one of the states I get asked about most from families in Kansas, Illinois and Iowa who just want to drive somewhere good.
Here is how I actually plan it. Wisconsin is really two different trips and most families do one, not both. Door County is quiet, a peninsula of harbor towns, lighthouses and cold water, closer in feeling to Maine than the Midwest. Wisconsin Dells is the opposite, a town built entirely around resorts with their own waterparks attached. They are three and a half hours apart on opposite sides of the state, so the first real question I ask a family is which trip they actually want.
I will tell you honestly if you are trying to cram both into one week. Usually you should not.
Start planning Wisconsin
Photo credit JOYS, CC BY-SA 3.0.
Must See and Do
Six specific things with prices where prices exist. If you take six lines off this page, take these.
Why Wisconsin Is Worth the Drive
This is a state built for a car, with two real reasons to make the trip depending on what your family actually wants.
It really is dairy country. Wisconsin makes about a quarter of America’s cheese and ranks second in milk production after California. Driving past working farms and small cheese factories is part of the trip, not a detour off it.
The waterpark decision solves itself. Wisconsin Dells calls itself the Waterpark Capital of the World, and with over 220 slides across its resorts, nobody argues. What the kids do all day is not a planning problem here the way it is elsewhere.
A coastline nobody expects from the Midwest. Door County’s 298 miles of Lake Michigan and Green Bay shoreline, cliffs, lighthouses and quiet harbor towns, feels closer to Maine than to anywhere else in this part of the country.
A stadium that actually means something. Lambeau Field has been fan owned since 1923, the only team in major American pro sports set up that way, and a tour there is a different thing from touring any other NFL stadium.
Getting There and Around
Milwaukee is the easiest airport for either side of the state, and after that it is entirely a car trip.
Milwaukee Mitchell International (MKE) is the airport to use. It sits closer to both Door County and the Dells than flying into Chicago and driving up, and it is usually cheaper than people expect.
Milwaukee and Madison are both under two hours from Chicago. I-94 gets you to Milwaukee in about ninety minutes, and I-90/94 gets you to Madison in about two and a half hours.
Door County is its own drive, about three hours north from Milwaukee up Highway 42 or 57. Once you are on the peninsula you need a car, the towns are strung out along the shoreline with real distance between them.
Wisconsin Dells sits almost exactly between Milwaukee, Madison and Minneapolis. That is part of why families from three states end up there instead of picking a side of the state.
The Apostle Islands need a boat, not a car. Sea cave kayak tours and cruises leave from Bayfield, all the way up on the Lake Superior side of the state, a trip of its own.
Door County
Give it at least three nights. It rewards slowing down, and there is no fast way to see it anyway.
Two ferry routes reach Washington Island from Northport Pier, a thirty minute crossing that runs about 225,000 trips a year. Bring the car or leave it, bikes rent right off the dock on the island.
Al Johnson’s Swedish Restaurant in Sister Bay really does have goats grazing on its sod roof. It is not a gimmick built for photos, though everyone photographs it anyway, ours included.
A real fish boil is worth planning a dinner around. Whitefish and potatoes go into a kettle boiling outside until it is deliberately overflowed in a burst of flame. Several harbor town restaurants run them most summer nights.
Fifty lighthouses and lights sit along the shoreline, ten of them on the National Register of Historic Places. Cana Island and Eagle Bluff are the two worth the actual detour.
Six state parks fit on one peninsula. Peninsula State Park is the big one, with bike paths, a working lighthouse, and a bluff trail with a real view out over Green Bay.
Wisconsin Dells
This is the trip most Wisconsin visits actually are. Pick a resort and the rest of the week plans itself.
More than 220 waterslides are spread across the resorts here, and the town’s own claim to be the Waterpark Capital of the World is not one anybody seriously argues with.
Most families book a resort with its own indoor waterpark included, so the real decision is which resort, not whether to also buy a separate day pass somewhere.
The actual dells are real, sandstone cliffs carved by the Wisconsin River, and the boat tours through them predate every waterpark in town by about a hundred years.
Noah’s Ark, the largest outdoor waterpark in the country, covers more than 70 acres with roughly three miles of slides and five million gallons of water in play.
Summer weekends book out resorts months ahead. If you want a specific waterpark and not just any room left in town, plan by early spring.
Milwaukee and Madison
Two cities worth a couple of days each, whether you’re passing through or building a trip around them.
Milwaukee’s brewery tours are built for a family afternoon, not a bar crawl. Most, including the big Miller tour, run kid friendly daytime slots with a lot of the history saved for the adults.
Lambeau Field is two and a half hours north in Green Bay, but American Family Field and Fiserv Forum put Brewers baseball and Bucks basketball right in Milwaukee itself, no drive required.
Madison’s capitol dome was modeled on the one in Washington DC, and it is one of the only state capitols you can walk straight into and climb, free, any day it’s open.
The Milwaukee Art Museum’s wing shaped sunscreen actually opens and closes over the building twice a day. Worth timing a visit around, even for kids who will skip the galleries.
Bald eagles winter along the Mississippi on Wisconsin’s western edge in numbers big enough that towns like Prairie du Chien run whole eagle watching weekends around them.
Wisconsin With Children
Poppy marks the family parts. Wherever you see her, that section is written for travelling with children.When to Go
Who It Suits, and Who Should Skip It
I would rather talk the wrong family out of a place than sell everybody the same week.
Families who want to drive there, not fly there. Wisconsin is a road trip state. If you are within a day’s drive of it, you can be on a beach or in a waterpark by dinner.
Kids who would rather be in the water than looking at it. Between the Dells waterparks and the lakes, this is a swim and slide trip more than a sightseeing one.
Families who want two different trips out of one state. Door County is quiet water and lighthouses. The Dells is waterslides and mini golf. Pick one, or do both a year apart.
Anyone who needs ocean scale water. Lake Michigan is big, but it is not the same trip as a beach vacation. Go to Florida or the Carolinas for that.
Families trying to do Door County and the Dells in the same three day weekend. They are almost four hours apart. Pick a side of the state and give it the time.
Combine It With
Lake Michigan touches both states. Door County on the Wisconsin side, Mackinac Island and the car free streets on the Michigan side. A long loop around one Great Lake.
Minneapolis is under four hours from the Dells. Trade the waterslides for the Mall of America and Lake Superior’s North Shore on the second half of the trip.
Wisconsin by the numbers
Facts to know before you go
Wisconsin is not one kind of trip
Ways to travel through Wisconsin
Door County is a slow drive. The Dells is a resort you never really leave. Milwaukee and Madison are cities you walk.
Independent TravelBook a Dells resort and never leave the property. Pools, slides, mini golf and a restaurant all under one roof, which is its own kind of easy.
Walking and HikingDevil’s Lake’s bluff trails and Door County’s Peninsula State Park both reward a real hike, not just a lookout parking lot.
Guided and Small GroupDells boat tours and Door County lighthouse cruises run on a schedule, no planning required, good for a family that wants the history explained out loud.
Or start from what your family likes
Themes and interests
HistoryThe State Capitol in Madison, one of only a handful topped with a granite dome, and lighthouses along Door County dating back to the 1850s.
Food and DrinkCheese curds, a Friday night fish fry, and a Door County fish boil where they set the fire flaring on purpose.
Nature and WildlifeBald eagles winter along the open water below the dams near Cassville and Sauk City, and Devil’s Lake’s bluffs hold nesting peregrine falcons.
Arts and CultureThe Milwaukee Art Museum’s wing shaped building opens and closes over the entrance like a bird taking flight, worth the stop even with kids who groan at museums.
You will only get this here
Only in Wisconsin
Only here
Goats on a restaurant roof
Al Johnson’s Swedish Restaurant in Sister Bay has a grass roof, and there are goats standing on it eating, all summer long. It has been the case since the 1970s and it never stops being funny.
Only here
A theme park town built around water
Wisconsin Dells calls itself the Waterpark Capital of the World, and with more than 20 indoor and outdoor waterparks packed into one small town, nobody has made a serious case against it.
Only here
A football team owned by its fans
The Green Bay Packers are the only publicly owned team in major American sports, and Lambeau Field has a waiting list for season tickets that runs into the tens of thousands of names.
Only here
A room that hangs over nothing
The House on the Rock’s Infinity Room extends 218 feet out over the valley with no visible support at the far end. Kids either love it or refuse to walk to the window. There is no in between.
Tell me who is coming and which month. I’ll build a real itinerary around whether you want Door County or the Dells, not a generic list of things to see.
