St Lucia Family Travel Guide

🇱🇨St Lucia Gros Piton and Petit Piton rising straight out of the sea in the evening light on Saint Lucia

The Pitons from the water. Two volcanic plugs coming straight out of the sea, and the reason this island looks like nowhere else in the Caribbean

Destination Guide

St Lucia Family Travel Guide

“St Lucia is the most beautiful island in the Caribbean and it is also the one families most often book by accident. It is built for honeymooners. That does not make it wrong for children. It does mean you have to choose your hotel very carefully.”

A palm tree on a green hillside above the rocky coast of Saint Lucia
Nicole’s Perspective

There is no St Lucia trip report on this site and none of these pictures are mine. What I have is a lot of couples and a fair number of families sent here, and a very clear sense of who comes home thrilled and who comes home saying it was lovely but exhausting.

This island is spectacular. The Pitons are not overhyped. It is volcanic, mountainous, green in a way Aruba and the Bahamas are not, and the drive from the airport in the south to the hotels in the north crosses a proper landscape rather than a strip.

The thing to understand before you book is that St Lucia sells itself to honeymooners. A large share of the best hotels are adults only, and the family friendly ones cluster in the north around Rodney Bay while the famous views are an hour and a half south. Booking the picture without checking the age policy is the single most common mistake made here.

And the roads. They are narrow, steep and slow, and children who get carsick will get carsick. That is not a reason to skip the island. It is a reason to base yourself once and stay put rather than planning a different beach every day.

St Lucia Place by Place

Twenty seven miles long and fourteen wide, but the mountains in the middle mean nothing is as close as the map suggests. The north is developed and easy. The south west is dramatic and slow. Almost everything a visitor wants is on the western side.

The town of Soufriere spread along the bay below Petit Piton on Saint Lucia
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Soufriere

An aerial view of Castries harbour with a cruise ship berthed alongside the town
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Castries

Palm trees and beach loungers along the resort strip at Rodney Bay on Saint Lucia
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Rodney Bay

The sheltered green inlet of Marigot Bay on the west coast of Saint Lucia seen from above
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Marigot Bay

The two Pitons seen from the sea off the south west coast of Saint Lucia
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The Pitons

Boats moored off a dark sand beach below a steep green hillside near Soufriere, Saint Lucia
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Anse Chastanet

The beach at Pigeon Island in Gros Islet on the north end of Saint Lucia
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Gros Islet

The dry volcanic hillside above the sea between the Pitons in the Soufriere volcanic area of Saint Lucia
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Sulphur Springs

The Pitons, and What You Can Actually Do With Them

Two volcanic spires straight out of the water, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the thing every photograph of this island is really about. Here is what is realistic with a family attached.

Gros Piton is the one you can climb and it is a real hike. About two and a half thousand feet, four hours up and down, guide compulsory, steep and rooty rather than technical. Fit teenagers manage it. Ten year olds mostly do not enjoy it.

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Petit Piton is not a family climb. It is steeper, has rope sections, and people get hurt on it. If somebody in your group is set on a summit, make it Gros Piton.

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The best way to see them is from a boat. A west coast catamaran day from Rodney Bay or Castries down to Soufriere and back gives you the view, a snorkel stop and no car sickness. This is the day I would book first on this island.

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Sugar Beach sits right between them and it is public. The resort occupies it but Saint Lucian beaches are public by law. You can arrive by water taxi, use the sand, and buy a drink. Nobody will move you on.

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The famous view is not from the beach. It is from the road above Soufriere and from the water. If a picture matters to you, drive the hill or take the boat, because from most hotel loungers you can only see one of them.

Gros Piton dropping into deep blue water seen from above on the south west coast of Saint Lucia

The water goes deep almost immediately at the foot of the Pitons, which is why the diving here is good and why there is very little shallow sand on this stretch

It Is the Honeymoon Island, and What That Means for a Family

St Lucia has built its tourism around couples and it has done it very well. That shapes the hotel stock in ways that catch families out at the booking stage rather than on arrival.

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A lot of the famous hotels are adults only. Including several of the ones in the photographs people arrive with. Check the age policy before you fall in love with a room, because the answer is often sixteen or eighteen and it is not negotiable.

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The family friendly stock is mostly in the north. Rodney Bay, Gros Islet and the Cap Estate end. Bigger resorts, kids clubs, calmer water, restaurants you can walk to, and a supermarket. That is where I put families almost every time.

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Couples pricing raises the floor for everybody. Rooms here are priced against honeymoon budgets rather than family ones, and a room that sleeps five is scarce and expensive. Interconnecting rooms are usually the answer and they need booking early.

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It is a wonderful honeymoon. If that is what you are actually booking, this is the island. Nothing else in the region does drama, privacy and a plunge pool with a view as well, and I sell a lot of it.

The Roads Are Slow and You Should Plan Around It

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Airport to the north takes ninety minutes

Hewanorra International is in Vieux Fort at the very southern tip and most hotels are in the north. It is roughly forty miles and it takes an hour and a half on a good day. Book the transfer, do not improvise it after a long flight.

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The west coast road is a mountain road

Narrow, steep, blind corners, minibuses coming the other way at speed. It is not dangerous if you drive it slowly and it is exhausting if you are not used to it. They also drive on the left.

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The helicopter and the water taxi are real options

A ten minute helicopter transfer from the airport costs real money and saves ninety minutes with tired children. Water taxis run up and down the west coast and are often quicker and far more pleasant than the road.

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Base once and stay put

This is the practical conclusion. Pick north or south west and accept that you will see the other end on one long day out or from a boat. Families who try to do both ends properly spend the week in a car.

A sailing boat on calm water below the steep green cliffs of Saint Lucia

The west coast by water. An hour by boat covers ground that takes twice that by road, and nobody is carsick at the end of it

Sulphur Springs and the Rest of the Volcano

Soufriere sits inside the collapsed caldera of an old volcano, which is why the whole area steams and smells. It is marketed as the world’s only drive in volcano, which is a stretch, but the day out is good.

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What the drive in bit actually is. You park, walk a short boardwalk, and look at a gray steaming field of vents and boiling pools. Twenty minutes with a guide. Interesting, quite small, and it smells strongly of eggs the whole time.

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The mud baths are the bit children love. Warm mineral pools where you coat yourself in gray volcanic mud, let it dry and rinse it off. Take swimwear you do not care about, because the sulphur stains it permanently and no wash gets it out.

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Diamond Falls next door is the better looking half. A botanical garden with a waterfall streaked orange and yellow by the mineral water. Easy, flat, shaded, and it works for the whole age range in a way the volcano field does not.

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Go early or go late. This is the standard cruise excursion and between ten and two it is coach after coach. At half eight in the morning it is quiet and the light is better.

What It Actually Costs

St Lucia sits in the upper middle of the Caribbean on price. Less than Cayman, more than the Dominican Republic, and the gap is mostly in the room rate rather than in daily life.

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The currency is the East Caribbean dollar and it is pegged. About two point seven to one US dollar, fixed. US dollars are accepted almost everywhere but you will usually get change in EC and often at a rounder rate than the true one. Small amounts, so do not fight it.

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All inclusive is the dominant model and it is worth it here. Restaurants outside the resorts are scattered and reaching them means a taxi on a mountain road at night. For a family this is one of the islands where the fixed price package earns its keep.

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Taxis are expensive because the distances are real. Rates are set and published. Castries to Soufriere and back for a family is a serious number. Factor it in before you assume you will explore casually.

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Tax and service are added and they add up. A ten percent service charge and a government tax on top of quoted rates is normal. Ask if a quoted room rate is inclusive, because half the time it is not.

Food

Saint Lucian cooking is Creole with a French accent, which is what happens when an island changes hands fourteen times. Ground provisions, saltfish, coconut and a lot of thyme. The Friday night street food in Gros Islet is where you actually meet it.

A plate of flaked salt fish with vegetables served beside boiled dumplings
Green Fig and Saltfish. The national dish. Green fig means boiled unripe banana, not fruit, cooked with salt cod, onion, pepper and thyme. Savoury, filling and much milder than it sounds. Usually eaten at breakfast.
A thick one pot soup of meat, root vegetables and celery in a white bowl
Bouyon. The Saturday one pot. Meat, dasheen, yam, sweet potato, dumplings and whatever else is in the kitchen, cooked down until it is nearly a stew. Order a bowl and you will not need dinner.
A creamy soup of dark leafy greens with potato and beans in a shallow bowl
Callaloo Soup. Dasheen leaves cooked down with coconut milk, okra and often crab or salt meat. Dark green, thick and rich. It is on every Creole menu on the island and it is the one to try if you only try one.
Small golden fried fritters served on a plate with a dipping sauce
Accra. Salt cod fritters, spiced and fried into rough little balls. Sold at every street stall and fish fry. The name comes from West Africa and so does the dish. Children eat them without asking what is in them.
A mug of thick dark hot chocolate with star anise and orange peel beside it
Cocoa Tea. Local cocoa grated into hot water or milk with cinnamon, bay leaf and nutmeg, then sweetened. Drunk at breakfast, not as a dessert. St Lucia grows real cocoa and the estates run tours where children make their own.

When to Go

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Dec to Apr

Dry season, high season, and the island at its best. Least rain, most breeze, highest prices. Christmas and February book out early because this is a peak honeymoon window as well as a family one.

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May and early June

The value window. The dry season is only just ending, rates drop hard, and the Jazz and Arts Festival lands in early May. This is when I would go if the dates were mine to choose.

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Aug to Oct

Wet season and peak hurricane season, and St Lucia is in the belt. Tomas in 2010 did serious damage. It is also cheap and green and the rain often comes in short heavy bursts rather than all day. Buy named storm cover at booking.

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Carnival and Jounen Kwéyòl

Carnival is in July, and Creole Day in late October is the one I would actually plan around. Whole villages cook, dress and speak Kwéyòl for the day. It is the island being itself rather than performing.

With Kids

Poppy, our cavapooPoppy marks the family parts. Wherever you see her, that section is written for travelling with children.
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The chocolate estates are the best day here

Working cocoa plantations where children pick pods, roast beans and grind their own bar to take home. Two or three hours, educational, and it is the activity families mention most often afterwards.

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Beaches vary a lot and some are volcanic

The north has pale sand and calm water. Around Soufriere the sand is dark gray and the water gets deep fast. Neither is bad, but if you pictured white sand and shallow shelving, book north.

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Car sickness is a real planning factor

Mountain switchbacks for an hour at a time. Sit anybody who suffers in the front, bring the tablets, and take the water taxi where you can. Every advisor who has sent families here has had this call.

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Watch out for the manchineel trees

Small green apples, common on Caribbean beaches, painted with a red band here. The sap burns skin and the fruit is poisonous. Do not shelter under them in rain and tell your children the rule on day one.

How It Compares, and Who Should Skip It

This is where an advisor earns the fee. Nobody chooses St Lucia in a vacuum, and here is what I actually say when the shortlist comes in.

Skip it if you want an easy flop and drop. The transfer is long, the roads are hard, and getting to the good bits takes effort. If the family just wants a beach and a pool with no friction, Aruba or the Bahamas does that better.

Skip it if you have a toddler and a tight budget. The family room stock is thin, it is priced for couples, and a long transfer with a two year old at the end of a long flight is a hard start to a week.

Choose it over Barbados if you want landscape. Barbados is flat and gentle and better for independent travel. St Lucia has mountains, rainforest, a volcano and the most dramatic view in the region. They are ninety minutes apart and completely different trips.

Choose it over Jamaica for a smaller, quieter version of the same idea. Both are green and mountainous. Jamaica has more culture, more music and more scale. St Lucia is smaller, calmer and easier to get your head around in a week.

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Who it is perfect for. Honeymooners, obviously. And families with children old enough to hike, snorkel and sit in a car, who would rather have a spectacular week in one place than a convenient one.

Two people walking on the sand at sunset on the west coast of Saint Lucia

The west coast at the end of the day. Every hotel on this island faces this direction, which is the one thing the honeymoon marketing gets completely right

Things Worth Knowing Before You Book

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It changed hands fourteen times between Britain and France. Which is why the official language is English, the everyday language is a French based Creole called Kwéyòl, and the place names are French while the road signs are British. Everybody speaks English to you.

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Friday night in Gros Islet is a street party and it is for locals. Music, grills on the pavement, the whole village out. Go early with children, eat, and leave by nine when it becomes an adult night. It is the best food on the island.

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Two Nobel laureates from a population of under two hundred thousand. Arthur Lewis for economics and Derek Walcott for literature. St Lucians will tell you this and they are entitled to. It is the highest rate per head anywhere in the world.

There are two airports and it matters enormously. Hewanorra in the far south takes the long haul flights. George Charles in Castries takes small regional ones and is ten minutes from the north hotels. Check which one your ticket says before you book a transfer.

Combine It With

If you have the time to add a second country, these are the ones I would actually pair this one with. Not a list of neighbors. A list of trips that work.

Ninety minutes apart and total opposites. St Lucia for the mountains and the drama, Barbados for the flat roads, the buses and the food.

Both green, both mountainous, both Creole in their own way. Jamaica gives you scale and music, St Lucia gives you a week you can hold in your head.

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