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Rocky
Mountaineer
daylight only, so you actually see all of it
Rocky Mountaineer runs on one principle that explains the entire product. The train does not travel at night. It stops, everybody sleeps in a hotel, and it starts again in the morning, so you see every mile of the Canadian Rockies in daylight. That is why it costs what it costs and it is the only reason to choose it over a cheaper train.
What daylight only actually means
A two day journey means one full day of travel, a night in a hotel in a town along the route, and a second full day. Your luggage is moved for you and is in your room when you arrive.
It sounds inefficient because it is. You could do it faster. But the Rockies at night are just darkness, and the entire value here is the scenery, so travelling through it asleep would be absurd.
The practical effect for families is that the days are long. Twelve hours on a train is a lot for a child, even a spectacular twelve hours. Go in with that expectation.
GoldLeaf or SilverLeaf
SilverLeaf is a single-level carriage with large windows, meals served at your seat, and a good view.
GoldLeaf is a bi-level dome car with a glass roof, an outdoor viewing platform, and a separate dining room downstairs where you go for meals.
The honest answer on which to book. GoldLeaf is significantly more expensive and the glass roof and outdoor platform are genuinely better, particularly for photographs and particularly for children who want to be outside.
If the budget is tight, SilverLeaf still gives you the scenery and the same route. You are buying the roof and the platform, not a different journey. I have recommended both depending on the family.
The routes
Several routes connect Vancouver with Banff, Lake Louise, Jasper and Whistler in various combinations, running through different mountain scenery.
The classic is Vancouver to Banff or Lake Louise via Kamloops. The Jasper route through the northern Rockies is quieter and arguably more dramatic.
There is also a route in the American southwest through Utah and Colorado, which is a different landscape entirely and less well known.
Most people book the train as part of a longer package with hotel nights in the mountains at either end, and that is the right way to do it. The train alone is not a holiday.
With children
There is no children’s programming and no play space. It is a train with big windows and a long day.
It works well for children who like looking at things and can sit still, roughly eight and up in my experience. Younger than that and the second day is difficult.
The staff are good with children and the food is generous. Bear and eagle spotting keeps everybody engaged for a surprising amount of the journey, and the onboard commentary is well pitched.
Bring things to do. Downloaded films, books, cards. The scenery is magnificent and it is still twelve hours.
What it costs and whether it is worth it
It is expensive, considerably more than flying or driving the same route, and there is no way around that.
Whether it is worth it depends on whether the journey is the point. If you want to get to Banff, fly to Calgary and drive. If you want the Rockies to be the holiday rather than the destination, this delivers something a car cannot, because nobody has to drive and everybody looks out of the window.
For multigenerational trips it is particularly good. Grandparents who would find a long mountain drive tiring get the same scenery in comfort.
What I would watch out for
Book early. The season is short, roughly late spring to early autumn, and the good departures go a long way ahead.
Weather affects visibility and there is no refund for cloud. Shoulder season is cheaper and cloudier.
And confirm what your package includes, because the hotel nights, transfers and any park admissions vary considerably between packages that look similar.
The Rockies work best as a combined rail and lodge trip and the sequencing matters more than people expect. Tell me your dates and I will put the route together properly.
Questions people actually ask
Does Rocky Mountaineer travel at night?
No. The train operates only in daylight so that guests see the entire route. Journeys of more than one day include an overnight hotel stay along the route, with luggage transferred for you.
What is the difference between GoldLeaf and SilverLeaf?
SilverLeaf is a single-level carriage with large windows and meals at your seat. GoldLeaf is a bi-level dome car with a glass roof, an outdoor viewing platform and a separate downstairs dining room, at a significantly higher price.
Is Rocky Mountaineer suitable for children?
It suits children roughly eight and older who are content to sit and look at scenery for long periods. There is no children’s programming, and days on board can last around twelve hours.
Where does Rocky Mountaineer go?
Routes connect Vancouver with Banff, Lake Louise, Jasper and Whistler in various combinations. A separate route operates in the American southwest through Utah and Colorado.
When does Rocky Mountaineer operate?
The season runs roughly from late spring to early autumn. Departures sell out well in advance, and shoulder-season travel is cheaper but more likely to encounter cloud.
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Written and kept current by Nicole Damiano, ASTA Verified Travel Advisor with Adventures We Seek. If something here is out of date, tell me and I will fix it.
Tell me who is coming and how long you have.
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