Lahemaa: Bogs, Manors and a Forest an Hour From Tallinn

Estonia is half forest, and an hour east of Tallinn the forest has a name. Lahemaa is the oldest national park in the country and the day trip that shows a family what the place is like outside the walls.

The bog is the thing. Viru bog has a boardwalk that runs three and a half kilometers across it, past dark pools and stunted pines, to a viewing tower. It is flat, it is safe, it takes an hour and a half with a child who stops to look at everything, and it is like nothing at home. In late summer there are blueberries along the path and picking them is allowed.

Kasmu is the fishing village. White wooden houses, a maritime museum in a captain’s house where the kids can touch everything, and a walk along the shore to a field of giant boulders left by the ice age. Climb one. Everyone does.

The manor houses

Palmse and Sagadi are two manor houses from the Baltic German days, restored, with gardens and ponds and, at Sagadi, a forest museum and a playground. Palmse has a cafe in the old distillery. Neither takes more than an hour and both break up the driving nicely.

Altja is the village with the old tavern, a wooden inn by the sea where lunch is smoked fish, black bread and a soup. Sit outside if it is warm. The swing on the village green is the biggest wooden swing your children will ever see, and it takes six at a time.

A car is easiest. There is a bus, but it is a full day with changes. Rent one in Tallinn, drive out on the coast road, come back inland. Home by dinner, or stay a night at Vihula manor and let the kids have the grounds.

Planning Estonia with kids? Start with the full Estonia family travel guide, or send me the ages and the dates and I will come back with what is really available.