Buenos Aires is a city that looks like Paris and eats like Italy and stays up like Madrid, and with children it works because of the parks, the ice cream and the fact that a family with three kids at a restaurant at ten at night is normal.
Sleep in Palermo. It is the neighborhood with the parks, the cafes, the playgrounds and the ice cream shops on every block, and it is safe to walk at night. Recoleta is the grand one with the cemetery. San Telmo is the old one with the Sunday market. Four nights.
The Sunday market in San Telmo runs the length of Defensa street, antiques, crafts, street tango on the corners, and a square where the kids watch the dancers and the puppet shows. Then the Recoleta cemetery, a city of marble tombs where Evita is buried, which children find fascinating and slightly scary in the right way.
Parks, a show and the river
The Bosques de Palermo are the parks, with a rose garden, a lake with pedal boats, a planetarium, and bikes to rent. The Jardin Japones for the koi. The Ecoparque, the old zoo turned into a nature park, for the capybaras that walk around loose.
A tango show is a Buenos Aires night, and the dinner shows are long. Pick one with an early sitting and a shorter program, or the free milongas in the park on a Sunday where locals dance and the kids watch from the grass. The Colon theater tour for the opera house.
Tigre on the delta is the day trip, an hour by train, with a boat through the channels past houses on stilts and a market on the water. A steak at a parrilla, an empanada from a window, and the ice cream, which gets its own post, because it is the reason to come.
Planning Argentina with kids? Start with the full Argentina family travel guide, or send me the ages and the dates and I will come back with what is really available.
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